There is perhaps no more authentic way to see Marrakech than to stay in a riad, a private house in the medina (the old town) that faces inward, organized around a central courtyard. Dar Warda couldn’t be more intimate—a mere four bedrooms—nor could it be less like a hotel, or more like a private residence.
Riads are walled in, and often, as in this case, accessible only by a derb, an alleyway too narrow for cars to pass, and are thus insulated from the noise and bustle of the city’s streets. And whatever charm Dar Warda may appear to lack from outside its walls, it makes up in spades once through its heavy century-old wooden door.
The inner courtyard with its bubbling fountain is the centerpiece and social hub. Rooms are elegant, in traditional Moroccan style, spread over three levels and outfitted with antique and modern furniture. Rooms are heated and air-conditioned, but that’s the extent of the gadgetry here—instead of hypnotizing yourself in front of CNN, you’ll be beckoned to the library, the candlelit dining room, or to the sitting room for tea. The cuisine is as authentic as the décor, and the rooftop terrace is the ideal place to watch the sun set over the medina.