In January, we tipped you off to the perfect blend of sea, mountains, jungle and culture found in Colombia. This week, contributing editor Geoffrey O'Brian connects the dots to Cartagena, a place of historical strife, now dressed for romance.
Ports make for some of the most romantic cities in the world - reflecting beauty in shimmering waters, stirring allure in sweeping vistas, and inspiring love in harbor sunsets. Yet with allure comes strife, and Cartagena is no exception, bleeding valiance from decades of battles that garnered the city the name "La Ciudad Heroica," the heroic city. Experience both in the heart of this pulsing Caribbean port.
It's easy. Now that the incessant pirate attacks have stopped, the fortified stone walls that once protected the Old City now harbor sharp boutique hotels. The classical colonial architecture is the same, just re-inspired by a flush of paint and modern design.
We suggest the recently-opened Tcherassi Hotel and Spa, and the historical Hotel Alfiz, a 16th-century colonial house converted to a hotel.
Just outside, underground passageways, a bastion wall and an armada of fortresses built to protect Cartagena from attack remind you that you are staying inside a Walled City dating back to 1533. The colonial era jewel within is yours to explore, complete with courtyards bursting with beautiful flowers, tiled roofs and small balconies overlooking the narrow streets.
The city seeps history as many structures from the colonial time are now shops and museums. A short 20-minute walk from downtown is the Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, the greatest fortress ever built by the Spaniards. Numerous attempts to storm the fort were mounted, but none successful. Check out the extensive system of underground tunnels built to distribute provisions and facilitate evacuation.
Venturing inland from the bay, there is much to see and do in the interior. Travel to the Parque Nacional Tayrona to enjoy white-sand beaches that abut some of the highest coastal peaks in the world.
Then return to the Plaza de Bolívar to sample sweet corn tamales called envueltos while sipping dried cane juice spiced with cinnamon and cloves called agua de panela. Relax as the waning sun paints some of the city's most elegant, balconied colonial buildings in warm afternoon hues.
For those seeking a romantic escape filled with history, charm and adventure, Cartagena may be just the ticket.
While you're in Colombia:
+ Colombia's Coffee Triangle
+ La Feria de las Flores
