Inky blue skies, sugar-cube villas clinging to plunging hillsides, and waters so clear and bright they have become the standard against which all ocean-color scenes are set: the Greek islands are holidaymaker heaven with enduring appeal. But knowing where to find those tucked-away tavernas, olive-shaded coast paths and beaches free from package-holiday hordes is what makes the difference between travel Paradise and tourist Purgatory. So here's our Greek informants pocket-size insider guide to the Aegean's most amazing isles.
Kefalonia: This Ionian island's rocky coast is an ocean-lapped Gorgonzola of deep coves and caves. Pastel-painted port villages come alive in summer, as pleasure vessels jostle for harbour space. It's breathtakingly beautiful.
The great escape: Despite the interested influx brought by Louis de Bernieres' novel Captain Corelli's Mandolin, it's still easy to find pristine pockets of seclusion. Pebbly Fokis Beach near Fiskardo is all low-key loveliness, surrounded by cypress woods and grassy knolls dotted with olive trees and flowers. There's a little taverna, too, so you don't need to venture far for lunch.
Drink up: Partner a few classic Greek dishes with a few carafes of Kefalonian wine at friendly, family-run Veggera Taverna at Vaskilikades in the port of Fiskardo. The terrace is a lovely spot to watch the sun set.
Bed down: Sleep at Emellise Hotel near Fiskardo, where chunky teak furniture and a subtle strewing of nauticalia tie the decor in with the stunning sea views outside. The Elemis day spa has an excellent array of treatments.
Santorini: The southernmost of the Cyclades is arguably the most dramatic of the Aegean islands; take a hotel room facing the vast volcanic bay (the caldera) and, as you watch ships criss-cross below, you'll realize that you're looking at one of the most awe-inspiring, and romantic, views on the planet.
The great escape: The nicest beaches on this small island are Perivolos and the 'naturist' beach at the Baxedes area, called 'Kolombos', but the best way to get away from it all is on a cruise around the island: Spiridakos (+30 22860 23755) can organise a romantic sunset trip aboard the sleek motor yacht Oceanis.
Eat up: Barhoppers and gourmets will love Santorini's lively tavernas and outstanding restaurants, where just-landed fish is always on the menu. Housed in a sea captain's abode in Oia is the acclaimed 1800 restaurant; reserve a table on the roof terrace for starlit dining.
Sleep: Bed down at Mystique, soaring over the rocky heights of the southernmost tip of Oia. Room 16's generous terrace has the best views over the caldera cliffs.
Stay tuned for more gorgeous, blue-water islands on Friday.
