05.03.10
INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION

No longer a city of soot and steel, Pittsburgh is a surprisingly hip, fun, and cultural city - almost European in feel with its steep, populated hills and plethora of bridges. People are friendly and down-to-earth, and neighborhoods are eclectic with lots of architectural gems.

And culture vultures will love the first-rate museums and quirky music scene mixed in with the endearing, scrappy, blue-collar element that refuses to completely give in to the creep of gentrification.

Our local informants give us the rundown on where to sleep, eat and play in this up-and-coming creative hub.

Sleep: The Priory, a former Benedictine monastery turned European-style boutique hotel, is anything but ascetic. Located in the historic North Side, its walking distance from The Andy Warhol Museum. Or try Sunnyledge, an eight-room B&B in Shadyside, which has pretty rooms and a first-rate bar and restaurant (they do a terrific brunch).

Eat: Hit the Strip District and nosh at Cioppino for steaks and seafood (there's also an adjoining market and cigar bar), dine on seasonal American at the chichi Eleven, or try local favorite Kaya for yummy Caribbean.

In Shadyside, Avenue B serves up seasonal farm-to-table fare, Paris 66 brings Paris-style café culture to the 'Burgh, and Soba's creative Pan-Asian doesn't disappoint. Or try Kelly's Bar a few blocks away in East Liberty, a funky little spot for drinks and "bar food" that takes drink mixing very seriously.

For brunch, Pamela's on Walnut Street has yummy pancakes and Point Brugge Café in Point Breeze makes the best waffles in town. Get the full brunch -- with Champagne and a potato strudel, who needs Europe?

Drink: In Lawrenceville, a blue collar hood that's becoming a major artistic hangout, catch a live show or performance art at Brillowbox while drinking craft brews from the East End Brewery and Church Brew Works (located just down the street).

Shop: Head to hip Lower Lawrenceville for the boutiques on Butler Street in the 16:62 Design Zone. A few blocks south in the Strip District sidewalks are lined with food stands and one-of-a-kind stores (we love Hot Haute Hot for cool housewares). And stroll down Walnut Street in Shadyside while sipping a coffee and poking into boutiques.

See: Start with The Warhol, one of the most comprehensive single-artist museums in the world. Then head to the Mattress Factory, a contemporary art museum that presents art you can get into -- room-sized environments, presented by in-residence artists. And don't leave town without having a look at Silver Eye Center for Photography on East Carson Street on the South Side for its rotating photography exhibits.

Soar: After such urban delights, take flight on the Duquesne Incline, a cable car that's been operating since 1877. It travels up the side of Mount Washington, overlooking the Ohio, Allegheny, and Monongahela Rivers.

We say: it's time to steel away.



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